Retinoids: The truth behind the myths
Written by: Lucy Partington
Updated on: 14 August 2024
Retinoids, also known as vitamin A, really are one of the industry’s most impressive – and scientifically proven – ingredients. Championed by scientists, dermatologists and beauty editors alike, retinoids tend to come in both serum and cream form, and using it in your routine works to help diminish fine lines and wrinkles while also working to even out skin tone, reduce blemishes and make it look both smoother and brighter.
For the uninitiated, ‘retinoid’ is the umbrella term for all of the derivatives of vitamin A – so ingredients you’ve heard of, including retinol, retinal, r-retinoate and retinyl palmitate, are all types of retinoid.
However, there are a few misconceptions and myths surrounding retinoids which can lead to some confusion when it comes to incorporating it into your routine, especially for those who’re yet to experience the magical powers that it can have on skin.
So, to help clear things up once and for all, we’ve got answers to the most common myths – from whether retinoids thin the skin to whether stronger formulas will provide quicker results – that’ll hopefully give you complete peace of mind once and for all.
1. Myth:
Retinoids exfoliate the skin
Fact: Retinoids help the production of new healthy cells
While there’s a common misconception that retinoids exfoliate the skin, in practice, they don’t exactly work to slough away dead skin cells in the same way that chemical exfoliants – like glycolic acid or salicylic acid – do. Instead, they offer a different form of exfoliation through their ability to promote skin cell turnover. So, by speeding up this process, retinoids help remove old, dead skin cells which then makes room for healthy new cells to take their place. It’s a process that – somewhat confusing – does mimic the effects of physical and chemical exfoliation and provides similar benefits, leading to smoother, clearer, more youthful-looking skin, but it isn’t exactly the same.
2. Myth: All retinoids are the same
Fact: Derived from Vitamin A, there are several forms
The reality of this one is that retinoids come in different forms, each with differing strengths and suited to different skin types and concerns. As mentioned earlier, ‘retinoids’ is the umbrella term, with retinol, retinal and r-retinoate, amongst others, sitting underneath it.
While retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A, it’s also an ingredient that’s only available on prescription in the UK. As far as over-the-counter retinoids go, retinol is the most popular and clinically proven one, but retinal is the one that we recommend most often thanks to its ability to work 11x faster than traditional retinol*. Then there’s r-retinoate, which is a fairly new type of retinoid exclusive to Medik8 and has been proven to be 8x more powerful than retinol and, unlike other forms, can be used during the day.
*G. Siegenthaler et al., Retinol and retinal metabolism, Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378
3. Myth: Retinoids thin the skin
Fact: Retinoids stimulate collagen production
A misconception that likely stems from the fact that initial peeling and irritation can sometimes occur when you first start using retinoids. However, the truth here is that, over time, retinoids actually have the opposite effect.
When you first start using retinoids, you may experience peeling, redness or some irritation due to the increased cell turnover and your skin’s way of adjusting, which is why it’s best to introduce vitamin A into your routine gradually. However, the long-term effects of using retinoids include increased collagen production, enhanced skin cell turnover and the thickening of both the dermis and epidermis (the top layers of skin). In turn, that’ll lead to stronger, healthier and more resilient skin.
4. Myth: Avoid retinoids around the eye area
Fact: It is safe to use around the eyes if done carefully
This myth is possibly based on concerns about irritation and sensitivity, however, when used properly, retinoids can provide significant anti-ageing benefits for the delicate eye area – especially if you use a dedicated eye cream formula, like Medik8’s Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye.
It’s always best to start with a lower concentration, and incorporating a good moisturiser and sunscreen will help to integrate retinoids into your daily eye care routine, and over time that’ll lead to smoother, firmer, more youthful-looking skin.
5. Myth: Retinoids stop being effective once the skin gets used to them
Fact: Individuals react differently to the adaptation process
Another unfounded retinoid myth: retinoids don’t stop being effective once the skin gets used to them. In fact, retinoids continue to promote skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen and provide long-term skin health benefits with prolonged use.
It’s worth noting that even if you stop seeing any visible improvements in your skin, rest assured in the knowledge that the retinoid continues to work at a cellular level to ensure your skin looks and feels as healthy as possible. So by consistently using retinoids, you’ll be able to continue reaping the reward of their positive effects over time.
6. Retinoids cannot be mixed with Vitamin C
Fact: Retinol and Vitamin C complement each other
This is a misconception based on concerns about potential irritation that could occur, but the truth is that when the two ingredients are used correctly in the same routine they can actually complement each other and enhance the visible results that you see.
Medik8’s groundbreaking CSA philosophy champions the use of vitamin C plus sunscreen in the morning and vitamin A at night for a truly gentle yet powerful routine.
Billed as the secret to glowing skin, our CSA philosophy not only takes the guesswork out of skincare, but it’s also a clinically proven approach to youthful, healthy skin – both immediately and over time, and that’s why we firmly believe that every solid skincare routine should start with those three fundamental formulas.
7. Myth: Retinoids cause sun damage and sensitivity
Fact: Retinol itself is not sun-sensitising
This myth is likely caused by the misunderstanding of how exactly retinoids work and interact with the skin because while they do increase photosensitivity (which is when there is an increase in skin sensitivity or other reaction when skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation), they do not cause sun damage when proper precautions are taken.
In reality, retinoids only make the skin more prone to damage if exposed without the correct precautions. Plus, it’s worth knowing that retinoids break down when they’re exposed to sunlight, rendering them ineffective, which is why they should only be used at night time (unless you are using Medik8’s r-Retinoate, which is one of the only vitamin A formulas suitable for daytime use) and you should apply sunscreen daily, especially after using a retinoid, to prevent sun damage or any photosensitivity occurring.
8. Myth: Stronger percentages of retinoids will give better and faster results
Fact: Building a tolerance leads to better results
The consensus of most skincare ingredients is that the stronger you go and the more often you use it, the quicker it’ll work – but sadly that isn’t the case, especially when it comes to retinoids. It’s a misinformed view that can overlook the importance of both skin tolerance and consistent use and actually, using higher concentrations when your skin hasn’t had a chance to fully acclimatise yet can lead to increased irritation and cause more harm than good.
Gentle retinoids can be just as effective as stronger ones, it really just depends on your skin type. That’s why a balanced, controlled approach is key. It’s always best to start with a lower percentage and gradually increase it if needed. For example, we suggest people start with Crystal Retinal 3 (or 1 if you are super sensitive), using it twice a week for two weeks, and then every other night for another two weeks before moving on to nightly application. Once your skin has built up a tolerance to retinoids, you can move on to a higher strength in our retinal ladder. That way you will ensure effective and sustainable results while minimising the risk of side effects. Plus, by understanding your skin’s individual needs and adjusting strengths accordingly, you’ll be able to achieve healthier, clearer skin.
9. Myth: Retinoids are only for mature skin
Fact: There is no age restriction for the use of retinoids
There is a longstanding belief that retinoids are only suitable for people with mature skin however, it’s a myth that overlooks the versatile benefits that they can offer to just about everybody, regardless of age. Whether it’s used for treating acne in teenagers (although this is something best done under the guidance of a doctor or qualified skin expert), preventing early signs of ageing in young adults or addressing wrinkles and sun damage in older skin types, there’s no doubt that retinoids really are a powerful tool that we can all benefit from.
Understanding the unique needs of your skin at different stages of life and incorporating retinoids appropriately means you will be able to achieve healthier, clearer, more youthful-looking skin no matter how old you are. As the experts in vitamin A, Medik8 has a variety of products at different strengths so you’ll be able to find the one that’s right for you and your skin.
10. Myth: Retinoids cause skin peeling and irritability
Fact: Irritation is not a guaranteed side effect
This is an important myth that we want to quash because we don’t want this to be the thing that stops you from introducing a retinoid into your routine. Of course, there’s no denying that vitamin A is the gold standard of skincare, but the one downside is that it can cause mild irritation and skin peeling when you first start using it. The side effects are temporary and completely normal, but they do require perseverance, and the reason it happens is because it’s your skin’s way of shedding dead skin cells. It’s a normal part of the process while your skin adapts to using retinoids – and how long it lasts is dependent upon personal skin type and everybody is different.
However, Medik8’s advanced formulas are designed to provide maximum, visible results with minimal downsides. By using our proprietary time-release technology we’re able to reduce irritation levels, and our next-gen Crystal Retinal uses encapsulation technology which slowly releases the vitamin A into your complexion for maximal results and minimal irritation.
We also advise introducing retinoids into your routine slowly to allow your skin time to adjust, and if you do notice peeling or irritation, try pairing your chosen formula with a moisturiser to help protect and support your skin.
11. Myth: Retinoids deliver instant results
Fact: Results can take weeks or months to show
As with all skincare, it takes a while to see results so patience is key. When it comes to retinoids, initial signs of improvement may be seen within a few weeks of consistently using the product, but the full benefits – which include a reduction in wrinkles, improved skin tone and smoother texture – will take a few months until you begin to notice. Using retinoids consistently and supporting your skin with a gentle, hydrating routine, will help you achieve significant and long-lasting improvements in your skin’s health, at both a surface and cellular level. Patience and persistence are key here – and believe us when we tell you the results are worth the wait.
Should you start using retinoids?
In short, our answer to this is yes – you should start using retinoids. Not only are they considered the gold standard in skincare, but the clinical trials and results speak for themselves. With continued use you will notice skin looks and feels healthier, it’ll be brighter, more hydrated and more even-toned, plus there’ll be a reduction in blemishes and pigmentation, too. It’s a true one-stop shop that targets an array of skincare concerns, and if you’re looking for a product recommendation, we suggest starting with our gentle but powerful hero product: Crystal Retinal 3 – you won’t look back.
Lucy Partington
Lucy Partington has been a beauty editor for over a decade and has written for titles including Stylist, Cosmopolitan, ELLE, British Vogue and GQ Middle East. She loves trying new sunscreens, cleansing her face at the end of a long day and is on a constant quest for glowing skin.